It’s l’oeuf at first sight. A small, cast iron gratin dish is filled with a cheese and truffle hollandaise glaze, its surface scorched like crème brulee. Dig in and there are slices of mushroom in an eggy ooze. It smells ridiculously good and tastes even better.

But don’t break out the berets or stripy T-shirts yet. This second iteration of LSWR, with new owners and new chef, does have pure Parisian bistro moments but the overall package is more worldly and nuanced, a sophisticated take on what a food-loving bar or wine-loving eatery can be. After a long stint in Paris, where he met his now-wife and opened his own venue, chef Peter Orr has brought a little of his travels home.

As well as the omelette, his brief menu includes excellent pork terrine, studded with pistachios, lightly spiced and accompanied by an intense beetroot relish. Raw scallops are crowned with slices of green tomato and placed across a splatter pattern of yoghurt and chive oil. Lamb rump is given the briefest grill, leaving it rare, with a cap of fat barely rendered. Kale, whipped labneh and a mint oil complete the picture.

Dessert is gelati-style brown butter ice cream, figs and a salted yeast caramel combined for a grownup sundae.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.