Like their fleet of red helicopters, the Jreissati family’s ultra-luxe Yarra Valley restaurant has demanded attention since it opened in 2009. But a lot has changed since. Firstly, that squillion-dollar, hanger-style winery has finally opened. Winemaker Paul Bridgeman’s Grange of the Yarra Valley, Optume, went to market for an eye-popping $800 a bottle. Finally, chef Vinnie Robinson (Blondie Bar) has replaced Teage Ezard.

After a post-pandemic reboot, Levantine Hill leans into its Levant roots with scaled-up lunches. There are only two expensive set menus – but with choices if you want to stay within “budget” or completely break the bank.

Kicking things off: Heathcote yabby croquette adorned with saffron, leek and topped with bursty, Yarra Valley roe. More good things follow, including tiny Turkish dumplings (manti) bobbing in a burnt butter and carrot cardamom puree, with diced vegetables from on-site gardens.

The dark horse is dessert – a velvety-soft hazelnut semifreddo with caramelised white chocolate, shatter-fine baklava, fresh strawberries drunk on rose syrup and mint. It’s downright delicious. This is a place where you’re made to feel important – if you can afford it. 

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