As word of Franco-Viet inspired Liberté spread, Albany – on the Southern Ocean coast of WA – found itself with a new culinary drawcard that captured national attention. Chef and owner Amy Hamilton’s dogged devotion to the producers of the Great Southern – from growers and fishermen to the natty and trad winemakers – is part of the package, as is her handle on what makes things delicious. Loaded fries ladled with a heady spiced pho gravy, shallot powder, garlic and sriracha is punchy comfort food and then some. Chilli crab and garlic noodles, now something of a signature, is best eaten in situ, but can also be ordered to go. One for the road?

In season, a platter of freshly shucked Albany oysters and a bottle by recommendation from bartender–manager Keryn Giles is all part of the experience. Hamilton and Giles are two sides of the Liberté coin – however it falls, you’re having a good time.