Barbecue squid is piled quiveringly atop a pool of romesco, the charred sauce a feisty accompaniment. A perfect crown of roast chicken arrives, the boned chook’s tanned exterior, crusted with spices and herbs, rests in plump slices on a puddle of a chilli-flecked jus rendered from chicken fat, tomato oil and lime juice.

On the side, a decadent wedge of potato boulangere is layered like dauphinoise but scented with thyme and smoky San Simon cheese from northern Spain. It’s a killer combo. Dessert is a pear and apple tarte tatin, dark and delicious with intense, slightly bitter caramel highs in a heady mix of crisp pastry and velvety textures.

Combined Lillian/ Society surely has one of Australia’s best restaurant cellars, with more than 10,000 bottles. Wines by the glass are all best-in-class, whether Barossa shiraz or a Piedmont nebbiolo.

For all its refinement there’s little ornament to Lillian’s dishes. No foams or fashionable trends. The expectation seems to be that the food will speak for itself. Which it does fluently, and in French.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.