Australians are not an easy lot to describe. We’re like a cultural and culinary microcosm of the planet, and although we are one, our influences are many. Even so, I think we could all agree on at least two Aussie icons.

The Queenslander is one of them. No, not the fanatics of that fairly decent State of Origin team (okay, they’re invincible), but the architectural variety, timber beauties with wraparound verandahs, that sit aloft on stilts to avoid floodwaters.

Another Aussie icon, well at least in my book, is the rotisserie chook. Once a ‘special occasion’ dinner, it is now at the heart of many suburban soirées.

At Little Big House, the latest member of Matt Moran and Bruce Solomon’s Solotel clan, both icons are on display.

Built in 1889, the heritage-listed Collins Place house has been transported to the Southpoint precinct. It’s had many lives (it was even a police station once), but this born-again two-storey Queenslander is perhaps enjoying its best incarnation.

Inside, it’s essentially a pub flush with greenery, floors in timber or black and white tiles, and a multitude of nooks and crannies. It may be a swillhouse of sorts, but the service and drinks list has it perched above your average arm-bender. There are cocktails in a can, respected Australian vinos, and a Young Henrys beer – ‘The Queenslander’, no less – brewed especially for the venue.

So, back to that chicken. The joy lies in the wave of umami – from the melding of the slow-roasted sugars, salts and fats – that overloads the palate. Little Big House’s bird is damn good. The flesh slips off the thigh bone, yet the breast still retains enough moisture. Served with fries, gravy and nicely dressed butter lettuce, it’s a decent bang-for-your-buck feed – although the gravy is a tad watery.

Prefer a porcine hit? There’s rotisserie porchetta, too. But you should start with solid kingfish ceviche topped with pickles, mint and coriander, and served in tacos.

Then there are peculiarities, such as a chicken parmi spring roll. It’s hard enough finding a pub that does a decent schnitty, let alone succeed with a nightmarish culinary mash-up. I ordered it because I figured it would be a disaster. But I was wrong. Rich red sauce, chicken and cheese oozing from each bite.

Bigger feeds offer more balance between produce and protein. Sweet potato and pumpkin puree reveals the nutty sweetness of roasted cauliflower, while a salmon salad of sugar snap peas, corn, gem lettuce and dill is satisfying.

Little Big House is no path carver; it’s a celebration of Queensland’s way of life, where a party attitude is backed by decent grub, quality drinks and good times – something all Aussies appreciate.