Traditionally lobby bars are frequented primarily by hotel guests, but they shouldn’t be the only diners to enjoy the spoils of The Calile Hotel’s flashy watering hole-cum-restaurant.

While the modern art deco-inspired fit-out is all glitz and glam with its pink marble bar and brass-rimmed tables, stone floor and high arches, the food by contrast is understated and restrained.

The all-day menu, running from noon til late, is a tight collection of smaller and larger plates with influences from Europe and the Middle East. They read simply but offer complexity such as silken Parisian gnocchi lacquered in nutty brown butter with capers for a salty pop. Or braised beef short rib made comforting and homely with mashed potato and red wine jus. Desserts are a treat with the likes of a Green Ant Gin and blood orange panna cotta or a classic creme brulee just so subtly spiked with lavender that it gives floral notes, without the soapiness.

A generous wine list with some unexpected and standout bottles is well matched to the fare, as are the juices and non-alcoholic sodas and shrubs. Cocktails deliver both classics and a bit of fun thanks to a well-stocked bar of big brands and interesting artisan spirits. While beers favour local craft.

With well-trained staff, Lobby Bar is a distinct step above your average hotel hangout.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Crayfish and scallion brioche roll