But step inside the low-lit Italian diner and discover that this is no shrinking violet on the plate. The menu works its way from tastes such as ricotta and mascarpone-filled zucchini flowers, through raw items like oysters and wagyu carpaccio to antipasti. There, grilled lamb ribs with sheep yoghurt and lemon, blueberry and buckwheat crumb are chunky and appealing, and Fremantle octopus with chargrilled eggplant puree, ginger and chilli dressing is a winner.

Pastas too, aside from the more subtle charms of tagliatelle with Fraser Isle spanner crab, opt for hearty flavours. Gnocchi teams terrifically with venison and marsala ragu, mushrooms and rocket and is topped with a jaunty parmesan wafer, while conchiglioni pasta shells mixed with tomato and chorizo ragu, Mooloolaba prawns, spinach and a generous amount of ‘nduja crumbs is similarly a booming winter wonder.

Main courses run to fish, a pork cutlet, confit duck leg and Black Angus tenderloin. Desserts include a limoncello tiramisu, which is light on the biscuit and heavy on the cream. Service is adept and the wine list is massive, with an emphasis on Italian selections, listed by region.

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