There are not many menswear stores where you can buy a pair of boots, a dry-aged NY strip steak and perhaps a bottle of Central Otago pinot noir. But New Zealand fashion label Rodd & Gunn has opened a hybrid enterprise on the corner of Robertson and James streets in Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley, in which a shop filled with clothing seamlessly blends with The Lodge Bar and Dining, which rambles about a beautifully converted two-level Queenslander.

With lashings of American oak, wool rugs, tan leather and brass touches, the light and appealing decor spreads across multiple spaces.

On the ground floor, tables are backed by deeply comfortable banquettes, replete with cushions, and behind a central bar lies a plush dining room with white tablecloths and soft seating, a profusion of hanging plants and a rock feature wall.

Upstairs there’s a garden behind glass and a more casual space, with bare tables in a combination bar and dining area, although the harder surfaces and some loud-talking drinkers make it less than perfect for a tete-a-tete. There’s also a lounge room, a private dining room and tables around the veranda.

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The menu has been devised by the group’s executive chef Matt Lambert (who earned a Michelin star in New York) with head chef James Evangelinos, who worked with Lambert in New York and has been a personal chef to James Packer. There’s a substantial offering, with a “Shells menu” opening with oysters from three states served four ways, such as beer battered with Greek yoghurt tartare or in green mango mignonette; crustaceans including prawns cooked in eucalyptus, or caviar tart with egg yolk, yoghurt and chives.

This is in addition to the main menu’s seven entrees such as sea trout tartare or cold trout with puffed grains and 10 main courses including lamb loin and duck. As a solo beef eater you’d have to be very hungry with deep pockets, as the options are the 700g strip steak ($98), a 1300g rib-eye tomahawk ($150) and “wagyu of the moment” ($300).

Entrees are as good-looking as the surrounds, a king prawn salad ($26) has two crustaceans perched amid a mix of jewel-toned citrus pieces on a bed of stracciatella ($26) while cuttlefish strips lie in a soft tangle topped with chilli strands, both dishes delicately appealing. Best is a bright, fresh salad of pea puree topped with julienned snow peas and oyster mushroom topped with a frizz of crisp, fried enoki ($21).

Also noteworthy are the “bug rolls”, which would be a shock to anyone expecting a take on the now famous Rick Shores version. But these are small flavour bombs, with a crisp wrapping of brik pastry encasing the buttered bug meat.

Portions are not large, and market fish, in our case red emperor ($42) paddling in a lake of smoked dashi beurre blanc, is notably small.

Duck-fat roasted potatoes ($16) are just warm and not crisp although the light and fluffy interior keeps them in the game.

Standing out is the hand-cut fettuccine ($38), which softly curls through blue crab pieces, with sea urchin butter and bottarga (cured fish roe) on hand to layer flavour.

After opening with inventive cocktails, the drinks list moves into a hefty selection of global wines, including just over a third from New Zealand, across a broad price point.

Desserts run from a classic passionfruit pavlova, to fennel sorbet with a nicely tart yoghurt parfait ($16) nestled in pistachio crumbs with elderflower jelly on the side.

Staff are engaging, some very experienced, others new to the trade but with the venue opening on May 19, it’s early days. Adjustments are being made and the second time I dropped by there were four bug rolls instead of two for $18, adding value to some of the eyebrow-raising prices in this most fashionable district in Brisbane. As the venue settles into James St it’s easy to imagine patrons embracing the multi-use concept, perhaps picking up some trousers on the way to imbibing in a rose gold negroni.

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