An Indian pale ale brewed exclusively for the hotel is theatrically poured into a thin-stemmed coupe glass. An entire lasagne hits the table in a heavy oven dish. Silky cacio e pepe sauce drips off not pasta, but crunchy, chargrilled cosberg lettuce leaves.

Star chef Adam D’Sylva has crafted a rulebreaking menu influenced by his Italian-Indian heritage for the spacious 110-seater, which has floor-to-ceiling windows and a rounded open kitchen.

For something small, D’Sylva’s punchy steak tartare is hatted with a quail egg yolk, while That’s Amore Cheese buffalo mozzarella wrapped in puff pastry with tartufata (Italian truffle paste) is baked to create an entertainingly cheesy en croute.

For something larger, Lollo’s lasagne (designed to be shared) sees rich duck bolognese and basil bechamel laid on to fresh pasta sheets, rolled into scrolls and baked in tomato sauce as good as Nonna’s. Borrowing tricks from its trendy hotel bar sibling, Curious, Lollo crafts cocktail concoctions like the Hot Mess, topped with a rosemary-scented sphere – pop the bubble and watch it dissolve into delicate smoke right before your eyes. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.