Consistency is the key to Long Chim’s success, with service, food and drink at the highest levels. Its late-night status, Thai-inspired cocktail menu and seven-days-a-week opening are also big ticks.

The Chiang Mai larb (minced meat salad) is a northern Thai depth charge. It’s a go-to for those looking for heat – so much heat, in fact, you’ll get multiple warnings from staff. There are classics most of us know – massaman curry, pad thai – and dishes that get to the heart of the divergent tastes of Thailand, like the sour orange curry of fish.

While the basement restaurant is the draw, we also love the bar for a speedy Long Chim hit.