David Thompson, the king of Thai with a palate like no other, is back. After leaving our shores in 2000 to open Europe’s first Michelin-starred Thai restaurant, Nahm in London, he hit Bangkok, Singapore and Perth. Now he’s bringing the hustle and bustle of Bangkok back to Sydney.

More of an eating house than restaurant, Long Chim embodies the energy, enjoyment and communal ethos of Thai cookery, but be warned — some of the dishes are not for the faint-hearted.

Ride the intensity of Chiang Mai larp of chicken aromatised by lemongrass and kaffir lime, or work up a sweat with the baby squid with green chillies and peppercorns. But it’s not all a spice assault. The silver perch is salt-baked whole – just peel the skin back and revel in the shimmering flesh — while turmeric colours a mashed prawn curry with coconut.

Few have such a connection to ingredients as does Thompson. He’s a once-in-a-lifetime chef and for a bit more than loose change you can enjoy his creations. Welcome back.

Must eat: Chiang Mai larp of chicken