Nothing quite beats those dining moments when a dish causes us to pause and revel in joy, but for those that have devoured the devil in David Thompson’s Chiang Mai larp of chicken, that pause simply signals a need for some respite. It’s hotter than a habanero wearing Speedos in the sauna. Wait, what?

Ok, towel yourself down. Let the sinuses clear and once the raging internal inferno subsides embrace the endorphins that deliver big on euphoria. It’s a fascinating crash course in complexity, balance, harmony and a Mike Tyson right hook all in one mouthful.

Yep. Welcome home David Thompson. We missed you.

After departing our shores in 2000 to conquer the culinary world with the globe’s very first Michelin-starred Thai restaurant, Nahm, London, he then wowed Bangkok, Singapore and Perth. Now he’s bringing the back streets of Bangkok to Sin City in style.

Thompson doesn’t see the point in a beige interpretation to please wimpy Western palates. It’s unapologetically and magnificently authentic. A scorching ride through the pungent, precise, sour, sweet, savoury and aromatic treats from the street.

More of an eating house than restaurant per se, Long Chim is about energy, enjoyment and, well, eating with friends.

Thai street art and neons colour the industrial main dining room, but as you turn the corner guests crouch on stools, while others dine and imbibe in the shadows.

Even the drinks list embodies the very essence of the restaurant’s personality, with killer cocktails and wines that do wonders with the fragrant food – even a few cheeky, albeit young, Thai wines too.

So sure, there’s the mind-bending heat in plates such as the Chiang Mai larp of chicken, aromatised by lemongrass and kaffir lime and tempered by cabbage cups, a la san choy bau; or the baby squid with green chillies and peppercorns. But then the best silver perch I have ever eaten shows the delicate, considered side of Thompson’s A-game.

A fish that benefits from being cooked whole, it’s salt-baked and arrives on a plate mimicking its shape. Peel the skin back and the shimmering flesh is revealed – deposits of gelatinous glory along its spine and belly. It’s immaculate.

Next turmeric colours a southern Thai specialty. Mashed prawn curry, softened by coconut, is wonderful, while the zing and fresh crunch of green papaya salad gains depth from peanuts and dried prawns.

Ensure the banana roti with condensed milk lands on your table – it was enough to convert this banana sceptic.

Few chefs have such an innate understanding and connection to ingredients as Thompson. He’s a once-in-a-lifetime chef, so make sure you go here at least once in your own lifetime. I guarantee you’ll return.