David Thompson’s Long Chim Sydney paints a fine, yet unpretentious picture of Thai street food with a central theme of fiery heat while exuding the right amount of refinement and earthiness.

Making your way down the dimly lit stairs, we enter a bustling space filled with music, chatter and exotic aromas – with vibrant artwork scattered across the walls. We are quickly greeted by an energetic host ever eager to get us seated and settled in. Long Chim’s size is deceiving. The centralised open kitchen is the beating heart of the venue, surrounded by wooden interiors and hidden nooks for people to gather, eat and drink merrily.

With executive chef Meena Throngkumpola at the helm, we receive our betel leaves to start, presented in the form of art: parcels filled with dried prawns, ginger and toasted coconut; two delicious bitefuls. A hearty plate of soft shell crab noodles arrives shortly after; a harmonious marriage of heat, crunch and comfort. The slow-cooked mussaman curry of beef is a moreish melting pot of flavour and textures, with crunchy peanuts and meat morsels that you can separate with a spoon. And we do just that.

Long Chim’s drinks selection is ahead of the curve, with a vast range of beers, wines and Thai-inspired cocktails; the citrus-infused Pomelo Spritz offers us sips of relief between heated mouthfuls of food, along with a glass of light and fruity Frankland Estate Riesling.

So you’ve finished mains, and your dining partner shuns the proposition of dessert. Don’t give in to such nonsense. Do order the banana roti. Flaky, light pancake rolls filled with caramelised banana, generously coated in a condensed milk emulsion and topped with grains of sugar, providing a satisfying crunch. Pure heaven.

It’s a feast for the senses, and by the look and taste of Long Chim Sydney, it’s going to be loved for a long time.

Must-eat dish: Banana roti