Longrain’s Australian take on Thai still feels fresh.

Into its second decade, this mid-level Melbourne fave has got the hot, sour, sweet and salty mix thing exactly right with a cracking drinks list to match. But far from resting on its laurels, Longrain is springing plenty of share-dish surprises to spice up restaurant visits.

Yes, the one-bite betel leaf wraps still beckon, but you might chance upon chargrilled cuttlefish with a roasted shallot and prawn relish, or stir-fried diamond clams fizzing with wild ginger.

Longrain’s famed eggnet filled with pork and prawns still reigns supreme, along with the always ethereal coconut-poached chicken and green papaya. But the chefs here – who personally serve some dishes – would also love you to try their fragrant yellow curry of hapuka, dense with Thai eggplant and snake beans.

Furnished with long tables, Longrain is great for groups but this moodily lit room, all brick and timber accommodates couples as well. Along with the ‘greatest hits’ menu, the fleet-footed floor staff are among the best in town, and so it’s no wonder that Longrain is here for the long haul.

Must-have dish: Coconut-poached chicken, green papaya and Vietnamese mint
Instagram: @longrainrestaurant