There was a time when the queues of eager young souls looking to slam cocktails and get a slap in the face from the pungent, spicy and fragrant fare of Longrain were as long as snake beans in front of the restaurant. It’s hard to fathom these days, but Longrain did then what Chin Chin is doing now for the next generation of Asian cooking.

The Thai stalwart opened 18 years ago and, just like its once youthful audience, it has matured to become an ever-reliable restaurant. Gone are the bar and the DJs, but cocktails are still flowing and the music sits at a comfortable hum. They still have the communal dining area, but in place of the bar are stand-alone tables to offer a more intimate experience that better suits the desires of the current generation of diners.

What’s nice is that Longrain’s success is founded in consistency, and whether it’s the smart and accessible wine list, the affable and proficient service or food flying off the pass – it’s a place you can rely on for a good night out. You can still share some of the classics from inception – mouthful morsels on a bed of betel leaf comes in two forms – confit salmon and peanuts, or yam bean and chilli jam. There’s the old favourite pork and prawn filled eggnet and of course the ever popular caramelised pork hock with five spice too. But the menu has fresh young things too.

Grilled cuttlefish joins spiced pork neck in a sharp green mango salad, while pickled bamboo and cold egg noodles join fried tofu in a yellow bean dressing. Longrain might not be the hotbed of young enthusiasm it once was, but the old dog still has fire in the belly, and the upside is that you probably don’t have to queue for your betel leaf these days.

Must eat dish: Eggnet, pork, prawn, peanuts, cucumber relish
Instagram: @longrainrestaurant