Tucked down a laneway off Fortitude Valley’s busy Ann St, the dark and moody interior with subtle Thai references could be anywhere. But the open kitchen, bar seating and communal tables generate a buzz that make diners feel like they are somewhere special.

Chef and co-owner Ben Bertei’s menu is an all-encompassing affair, stretching from bar snacks, raw offerings and salads to curries, stir-fries and noodle dishes, all designed to be shared — and among the more people the better. The fresh and crunchy prawn larb taco is a great place to start, followed by the zingy papaya salad dressed with sour fish sauce that works as the perfect juxtaposition to the rib-sticking beef cheek red curry with sweet potato dumplings or ultra fatty massaman curry using battered and fried lamb shank.

Desserts show creativity taking on Thai notes, but perhaps skip the sweet course for one of the venue’s brilliant, Asian-influenced cocktails; or let the well-informed, charismatic staff help you to another glass of wine from the smart, diverse list, which dabbles with interesting styles from small producers.

But be sure to get in quick as Longtime will close next month to become a function space. The good news is, however, that they will reopen in a new space with the new name Same Same at the recently completed Calile Hotel Precinct, just a chopstick toss away in Fortitude Valley.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Prawn larb taco and beef cheek red curry