From a seat on its verandah, attention swings from the mesmerising rural view to the theatre of a restaurant running at full throttle. Yes, there’s plenty to love about Lost Phoenix Farm, the new project for Andre Ursini and young co-owner/chef Will Doak, starting with the farmhouse/bric-a-brac fit-out and its party vibe.

Doak and head chef Bridget Corber have put together a menu that doesn’t require over-analysis. Still, there is room for a few twists – like wedges of cucumber and barely-sweet flesh of melon de sapo, dressed with gin syrup, rosemary and dill, that makes it feel like the world’s most refreshing G&T in a vegetable.

Anchovy-on-toast is rendered with the salty fillet draped over sweet stewed capsicum and whipped ricotta. Have it with an excellent Campari spritz and that sea breeze might be coming from Positano rather than Port Elliot. Few will turn their noses up at chunks of luscious, slow-roasted lamb shoulder on a cushion of smoky eggplant and yoghurt puree. 

Dessert shows great technical virtuosity with jiggly panna cotta underpinned by a sable biscuit and accompanied by slices of fresh fig and a fig syrup. 

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.