The beating heart of the collaborative operation is a giant architectural shed with cool bar pouring beer, wine, gin and more, all made on site. On weekends the place heaves; with outdoor seating for tastings or tucking into wood-fired pizza.

Inside the shed, Hills resident and native food wizard Shannon Fleming concentrates on an inventive degustation that unfolds across the afternoon. Beginning with snacks: Boston Bay mussels cooked with lemon myrtle and sprinkled with kimchi powder, tiny crumpets (made from leftover sourdough) topped with tart plum and wrapped in a wafer-thin strip of lardo, or compressed kangaroo tail meat, something between a delicious sausage and biltong. 

Seriously good spelt and rye sourdough comes with satiny chicken liver parfait – keep some bread to sop up the briny juices of Goolwa cockles cooked in cider with saltbush. Native and foraged ingredients star: kingfish sashimi with wild Hills blackberries and purslane; sugar loaf cabbage dusted with bunya nuts beside dry-aged scotch fillet. And that view through wind-ruffled gum trees to the cider orchard merits its own Michelin star.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.