And it’s not the only food you’ll find on sticks in the pastel dining room in the Saint Moritz complex. Expert forager Holland (Lume, Noma Australia and Quay) has a penchant for threading proteins on twigs (think butter poached scampi), using ingredients you can’t pronounce and artful plating.

At LOTI (Lady of the Ice, after the old Saint Moritz skating rink) expect ingredients made from scratch or scavenged from nature’s supermarket. Like those sea succulents on an oyster platter loaded with native condiments. An avalanche of snacks follow: smoked yellowfin tuna mousse sprinkled with cured albacore in a wafer cone; the “ice rink” ceviche of diced red emperor tumbled in lime juice, saltbush and black olives, hatted with an ultra-fine ice disc smashed and stirred tableside.

Beetroot raviolo arrives draped over a sweet Murray cod mousse, surrounded by a pool of trout roe-jewelled beurre blanc, roasted squash and fiery XO (incredible). The energy in Holland’s cooking is palpable – we can’t get enough.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.