When brothers Will and James Newton first transformed daytime café Uncommon at the top of Chapel Street into a cocktail-slinging nightspot, in late 2017, it flew under the radar, but after a costume change early this year, locals started to see its appeal.

Romantic in name and look, Lover has Gatsby vibes, with dramatic drapes falling from the ceiling, chandeliers giving out a honeyed glow and assorted antiques completing the set dressing.

It won’t be just the décor to win you over, though – the clever cooking of chef Paul Turner (formerly of Donovans and Cutler & Co) is the real seduction here.

The weekly gnocchi and wine night, for instance, has a cult following. But before you get to the Italian favourite, first have the croquettes. Shaped more like fat fritters rather than the typical little barrels, they ooze cheesy goodness and are crisp and fluffy in all the right places. Also among the starters, spanner crab with avocado, served in shell-like lavosh and showered with macadamia and chives, is magnificent.

The highly fancied gnocchi, made daily, are fine pillowy potato-laced dumplings, pan-fried and, depending on the season, perhaps lolling in brown butter with meaty pine mushrooms and pops of salty goat’s cheese, balanced with smoked shallot and buttermilk.

The tortellini are another triumph, the pasta parcels filled with chicken and prawn bathing in a twice-cooked chicken broth scented with Madeira and tarragon, with lavosh adding textural crunch.

Lover also has a strong cocktail game. Bar manager Daniel Mason’s riffs on classics extend to plays on the Negroni and G&T. The orange and torched rosemary G&T is a fiery spectacle when it’s ignited at the bar.

The tight wine list, meanwhile, is long on local labels.

Lover has many charms and whether it’s a date night or any night out, you’ll leave in good heart.