Tucked into a nondescript Chippendale laneway, with only a stack of firewood and a small sign giving an indication of what lies within, you feel as if you’ve stumbled upon a little neighbourhood secret – a neighbourhood secret that supplies cured and smoked meats to some of the best restaurants, cafes and farmers’ markets in Sydney. Not so secret after all then.

But it’s not all about charcuterie here (although the plate of salami, mortadella and whatever else is being sliced that day is a must-order, especially when paired with inch-thick slabs of house-made sourdough and smoked cultured butter).

The kitchen churns out pared-back but delicious dishes like raw mackerel tuna with yuzu and mandarin, and squid (the special of the day) grilled and served with lemon. Then there’s the fritto misto made with market-fresh veg from Newcastle Greens, and a plate of roasted peppers, aubergine and anchovy that is the perfect mix of salty and smoky (save some of that sourdough to mop up the sauce). Dessert follows suit: a wedge of chocolate torte served with no frills other than a dollop of creme fraiche.

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