We’ve been a little overwhelmed by American barbecue over the past few years, but one restaurant delivers a truly Australian version of a smokehouse, with great results.

LP’s Quality Meats owner and head pan handler Luke Powell cut his teeth at fine dining temple Tetsuya’s, but his Chippendale den couldn’t be further from that refinement – through it’s just as impressive.

Down a narrow alley, through a surreptitious sliding door, this long and rowdy beer hall-style eatery boasts a rocking bar and rows of happy punters enjoying the festival of the flesh on low communal tables.

Everything is made in-house — pickles, smallgoods, bread, smoked fish, you name it. And although it’s a boisterous celebration of many beasts, it’s clear that solid technique has formed the backbone of this barnstorming feast.

Spiced blood sausage partners pickled fennel and bone marrow underpins slivers of beef tongue. Octopus wraps around black rice and Aleppo pepper. Work your way through a plate of smoked beef short ribs or lamb belly stuffed with Merguez sausage.

Must eat: Smoked beef tongue