The masters of smoked meats, pickled treats and a beer-swilling communal feast, LP’s Quality Meats reminds us that the best time to be had is over breaking bread with a group of our favourite friends. But this is no American barbecue den. It’s a truly Australian smokehouse that has much more craft, subtly and considered dishes than one may perceive.

It’s hardly surprising when you discover there are two Tetsuya’s alumni in the kitchen – owner and head chef Luke Powell, and his right hand man Shannon Debreceny. As such there’s impeccable technique hidden behind each dish, but the experience couldn’t be further from that of refinement. Rather, it’s rock ‘n roll with a fist full of damn good times.

So, as Queens of the Stone Age rollick along in the background, rows of happy punters get messy devouring our best carnival of the flesh in this beer-hall-esque back street site.

All things are mad on-site (pickles, bread, mustards, hot sauces and cold cuts, too) and the smallgoods are so good they supply half a dozen of Sydney’s best restaurants.

Start with mortadella, salumi cotto, mustard, pickled jalapeno and olives. Succumb to the cold-smoked ocean trout with crème fraiche, and marvel at New Zealand tubort (Sand Dab) in butter and thyme before sinking the teeth into the ultimate beastly feast.

House-made condiments – chimichurri, chilli and mustard – help cut through smoked, then fried chicken, the wobbly joy of 12-hour smoked beef short ribs, the blushingly pink flesh and crisp skin of porchetta and lamb belly stuffed with a North African merguez sausage. Good god, bring a group or you’ll never finish it!

Must eat dish: 12-hour smoked beef short-rib
Instagram: @lpsqualitymeats