Sydneysiders are all about the new. We want to eat at the latest restaurant, we want the most innovative dish, we want to be ahead of the curve.

But there’s something to be said for the old and something even more for a restaurant that’s lasted 30 years in such a fickle industry.

Yes, the food is grand and the yellow walls of the art-filled restaurant make you feel like you really are in an Italian trattoria, but mostly it’s down to ebullient host Lucio Galletto, who greets and charms you at the door.

It’s old-fashioned hospitality and even though he has the same amount of time for every diner, it feels like he really only opened for you. So forget about the new, take a seat and enjoy the dining vibe of the past.

Must eat: Tagliolini with blue swimmer crab