Lucy Liu loiters in a bluestone alley, her name glowing in red neon.

From the exterior, this Asian eating and drinking house has a nightclub vibe. But once inside, Lucy’s come-on is brilliant pan-Asian fare with a cracking drinks list, served with laid-back style in a buzzy canteen space.

Pale timber meets polished terrazzo, booth seating nudges up to communal tables, and pumping beats keep the chatter level high.

Order a well-muddled cocktail to get you going or one of the many aromatic varietals that suit Lucy’s spirited food. Then tuck into the ‘small bites and tastes’.

The kingfish sashimi, scattered with toasted coconut and drenched with lime, could well be the best in town; while the soft-shell pancake roll, amped up with spicy hoi sin sauce, delivers joy in every mouthful.

The Korean-style crispy pork hock is Lucy’s signature dish for good reason. You can hear the snap of the tanned crust as you drive a knife through it, revealing lovely pale porky meat inside ready for folding into pliable Peking Duck-style pancakes.

Still, the kitchen here would love you to try their Cantonese steamed blue cod with ginger, or crispy fried Sichuan duck with a garland of watercress.

Pricey? Nah. Flexible? You bet. So many reasons to love Lucy.

Must eat dish: Korean-style crispy pork hock
Instagram: @lucyliu_melbourne