Luke's Kitchen, Waterloo review: honest and reliable

Luke Mangan's Waterloo bistro in his refashioned warehouse may be the closest reflection of the way the man himself likes to eat.

You’ve probably heard of him. You’ve more than likely eaten his food. You may even think you know him. Hell, Luke Mangan’s name is plastered on everything from olive oil to dukkah, and menus on planes, ships and in bricks and mortar, too. But did you know he has an almost unnatural obsession for chardonnay and Frank Sinatra, and prefers simple bistro food?

Luke’s Kitchen, housed at Mangan HQ in Waterloo, is a little taste of the way he prefers to dine and imbibe. The vast warehouse has hosted catered events for years, but the former wine bar at its entrance, Mojo by Luke Mangan, was never quite suited to the neighbourhood location.

Luke's Kitchen

He scrapped it (and is scouting hole-in-the-walls in the CBD to get his Mojo back) and Luke’s Kitchen has landed in its place. It’s a warm, intimate bistro with low lighting, greenery hanging from above and a copper-fitted bar. Operations manager Daniel Whitelaw is behind the sweeping changes, and he also brings his weighty experience to the floor, while chef Matt Leighton dishes up bistro nostalgia garnished with Asian accents.

A well-seasoned salt-cod dip with puffs of pork scratchings and a dab of lemon purée makes a great start. Nam jim delivers a sharp kick to creamy ocean trout sashimi, and a spicy kimchi jam adds spark to light tempura-coated quail. A mousse of leg and thigh meat and chicken livers encased in crisp chicken skin enriches a roasted chicken breast, while a choice of market fish or a giant slab of beef (the roast of the day) is designed to share.

Luke's Kitchen

In fact, it’s all designed to share, including the Rocky Road. The various elements – white chocolate mousse, brownie, marshmallows and more – are wheeled out on a trolley and assembled tableside by the chef. It’s a fitting finale for fans of brand Mangan, and anyone who loves an honest and reliable local.

8 Danks St Waterloo NSW 2017

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