Named after the Italian word for ‘small lights’, this Italo-Japanese eatery is known for its dazzling 8-course dining experience, which is filled with moments of brilliance and clarity. Housed within a glowing glass cube on Pyrmont Bay, the perfectly angular dining room is a vision of pared back elegance, where square and circular tables form shapes within shapes, illuminated by a hanging garden of drop pendant lighting. Behind the ambitious concept restaurant is young gun Federico Zanellato, a former chef at Noma and Attica, and his wife Michela Boncagni, the venue’s talented sommelier.

The tasting marathon takes off with a succession of small bites, from stracciatella and fish roe packaged neatly in nori, to an avo and cereal grain tartlet, all cream and crunch, before building up to the more daring dishes. Crimson apple balls bob in a soup of jalapeño juice, buffalo curd and sunrise lime, a strange-sounding but completely illuminating combination of soft, sweet and sour. Winged agnolotti get the dim sum treatment, each precious bundle holding a payload of warm, unctuous shitake broth that bursts in the mouth with liquid richness. For dessert, buffalo milk ice cream becomes a sophisticated sundae, with coffee caramel popcorn and yoghurt crystals standing in for the sprinkles. The future sure looks bright for this young talented team.