One of the beautiful things about our food industry is the influence of so many cuisines and cultures. You can practically eat any cuisine quite well in Australia, and as such the merging of techniques, ingredients and combinations and bravery of our chefs is carving a new path for unchartered culinary waters.

Lumi Dining is the brainchild of talented Italian-born chef Federico Zanellato who demonstrates a masterful marriage of Italian and Japanese cuisine like no other chef we’ve seen before.

But he understands context too. It’s as much reliant on Australian produce and lifestyle as it is the backbone of Italian technique and Japanese simplicity. It’s brave, avant-garde, visually stunning but intimidation free and has bags of flavour.

As ripples kiss the wharf on Pyrmont Bay, a fairly simple, sleek dining room is drenched in sunlight thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal the harbours jewels outside.

Meanwhile proficient waiters pirouette around tables and chairs upholstered in textured mauves and olive greens. The wine list is surprisingly accessible given the direction of the food, making for an even more enjoyable long lunch. And, of course, it’s Zanellato’s food, a synthesis of supreme technique and application, that is the real hook. Snapper ceviche is so stunning you’ll hesitate eating it to revel in its beauty. Almost. Then artichoke shines in a delicate sunflower dashi broth. Then eggplant and radicchio help balance beef short rib and agnolotti finds a delicious partner in a combination of mushrooms. The desserts are just as fascinating. Sorrel parfait delivers a pleasing savoury, grassy prelude to the zing and twang of a smaller yuzu tart. Wow. What an extraordinary chef and fabulous location to dine.

Must eat: Tagliatelle, prawns, bottarga