Authentic Italian food and hospitality is on the menu at this relaxed, neighbourhood pizzeria.

The indoor/outdoor space nestled underneath the red-brick Light+Co building in West End is comfortable, but frill-free, letting the mix of casual bites, off-the-radar wines and old-school hospitality be the stars.

The menu is all about sharing, say a starter of gin-cured salmon with citrus dressing, before one of their specialty ‘Lupacchiotti’ (cub, in Italian) small plates. The un-sauced thin crisp pizza base topped with dry cured pork capocollo, oozy-centred burrata, a disk of marinated eggplant and Parmesan shavings is great; but the mortadella version featuring the soft and sweet Italian salume folded onto a chunky pistachio cream with more of that lusciously creamy burrata and crumbled pistachios is even better.

Bringing in the crowds though, is the brigade of pizza, marching in a formation of six red and six white. The perfectly puffed, lightly charred, slow-fermented bases are designed to be the stars, and with minimal toppings, such as traditional San Marzano tomatoes and a few slivers of San Daniele prosciutto and fior di latte, they are as classically Italian as a Sophia Loren film.

Carefully matched to the cuisine is a smart, interesting Italian wine list, including familiar drops like Lambrusco and moscato, plus lesser-known varieties such as Tuscan ciliegiolo and negroamaro from Puglia. There is also a terrific range of aperitifs, digestives and grappa, which floor manager and co-owner Andrea Contin will thoughtfully explain to guests.

The occasional language barrier with some staff adds to the authenticity of the experience, making Lupa the type of typical neighbourhood pizzeria you find dotted all over Italy.

Must-eat dish: Mortadella ‘lupacchiotti’
Instagram: @lupapizzabar