This traditional French bistro in Brisbane’s inner-west has an Alsatian accent thanks to owner-chef Romain Bapst’s heritage.

Service is very attentive, the tables are white-clothed and the menu builds through hor d’oeuvres such as a Yamba prawn cutlet in crisp pastry with green sauce or snails in parsley and garlic butter before launching into fare such as Moreton Bay bug tail, potato gnocchi, roasted chestnut and sage “cocotte”.

Tripe and pig’s trotters “a la mode” braised with cider and brandy are an option, as is slow roasted duck with red cabbage and apple puree, or a quail, duck foie gras and black truffle pie.

Then there’s the difficulty of weighing up apple tart or crepes suzette against the array of French cheeses for the finale.

The comprehensive, mostly French wine list, also offers its by-the-glass options in three sizes adds to the charm in this well-run enterprise with slick, professional service the trump card.

Exceptional dish: Moreton Bay bug cocotte