Lutece, the name of Roman city that was the predecessor of modern-day Paris, is (like the French capital) a restaurant for special occasions.

Perched on a hill in leafy Bardon, with stunning views through floor-to-ceiling windows over Brisbane suburbia, the minimally dressed space has that effortless French chic.

Reinforcing that feeling is the French-dominated team of waitstaff, who offer charm and expertise in equal measures as they seamlessly work the floor.

Respected chef and owner Romain Bapst, who hails from Strasbourg, is one of only two Maître Canardier in Australia and, with a day’s notice he can prepare the extravagant Gallic delicacy of pressed duck that is elaborately served at the table.

For the more spontaneous diner, however, the other French classic of snails should not be overlooked – their shells pooling with melted, herby butter and garlic to sweep up with baguette. It’s perhaps only trumped by an uber-sweet Moreton Bay bug tail and marshmallow-like gnocchi floating in a life-changing, sage-spiked buttery broth.

Desserts also celebrate the French masters: crème brulee, apple tarte Tatin, and an oozy-centred chocolate fondant met by thick, lightly salted caramel sauce and a passionfruit ice cream.

Bardon is certainly no Paris, but Lutece serves up French-accented sophistication for a momentary soujourn on the Left Bank.

Must-eat dish: Moreton Bay bug gnocchi
Instagram: @lutecebistro