And, while Luxsmith is the perfect locals’ date-night joint, adding yet another dimension to Seddon’s increasingly exciting food offering that’s punching above weight in its quaint village-like surrounds, this smart, modern Vietnamese day-through-night diner is definitely worth visiting from further afar. If only for that wine.

It’s a glorious document filled with incredible drinking at great prices, but it’s the personality-filled commentary that reminds you of the inherent joy in drinking wine.

There’s no po-faced dogma driving this list — how can there be with a section called “one up from the cheapest”, with all priced at $45, or a “lucky dip” where such bottles as a “bright, juicy red” are wrapped in foil for you to guess, or simply drink.

Oh, and a section called The Dude Abides, because, well, The Big Lebowski.

We drank a beaut bottle of minimally marked up Chalmers greco — an interesting, rarely seen Italian that’s found a home in Heathcote and a great match for chilli spice here — for $45, though I’d just as happily sip on a $12 glass of Pieropan soave, or a $9 glass of Torbreck juveniles GSM, if I were the designated driver.

It’s a deliciously fun and clever shot across the bows of all the self-important lists that are rarely written for the diner.

Wine guy about town Ben Knight is that man behind the list, and Andy Smith is the man behind this madeover redirection of what was Le Chien, his ever-popular brunch spot for the past decade.

Andy has partnered with Denis Lucey of CBD stalwart Bottega (you can read/drink more of Ben’s handiwork there) and brought on chef Tad McLean to create the menu of accessible snack through share plates.

It’s a breezily light, good-looking space, with colourful tiling adding pastel splashes among the whitewashed brick walls and recycled timber roof.

There’s high stool seating at tables by the window for the strong of back, duos and foursomes in the centre of the room for the less so.

Tad, who earnt his wok chops in Glasgow mod Viet Hanoi Bike Shop, creates an accessible range of plates that — thankfully — don’t shy from proper chilli heat making it easy to mix-and-match to taste.

Perfect with a Tiger beer on tap ($6 pot), the sweet corn fritters were properly delicious ($7 for three), their crunchy shells revealing pops of sweetness from the kernels throughout.

The addition of coconut adds a tropical breeze to take the edge off the sambal’s sunburn-y tingle. They’re great.

The roasted bone marrow ($10) is another good dish, and though it pales in comparison with the XXL version Sugar Prawn in Collingwood is serving, size doesn’t really matter with the gooey marrow ready to be scooped up by the pink cracker; soy caramel drizzled around adding lick-the-plate salty sweetness.

Skip the tofu ($7) that needed more sticky soy to counter the curd bricks that lacked any real crunch to the coating and get stuck into, instead, a great plate of sweet potato where there’s lots to love ($15).

Dense with thick coconut cream, it’s rich, but elegantly handled; though slow-cooked the thick tubers held just-firm to the press of a fork, while atop, crunchy sweet potato slivers had been chipped crisp.

Equally deft, the lamb curry ($29) is good late-meal filler, the gravy carrying a lingering heat, the cubes of meat tender soft.

To finish a Vietnamese crème caramel, with its mint leaves and diced cantaloupe and smear of sweet coulis, wins dag of the night ($14) and though sweeter teeth won’t be impressed, I thought the carrot halva with grated carrot and plump sultanas and sour cream atop a great full stop ($11).

And the next morning, I loved the big bowl of comfort that is their congee.

Less soupy than others, I liked this more textural version, the broken rice holding just firm. Slices of spoon-soft poached chicken hidden within and a good handful of crunchy shallots, spring onion and chilli made for a great start to the day — as did an excellent Coffee Supreme flat white.

An intriguing “Vietnamese pork egg dumpling” is better known to you and I as a scotch egg, but the meaty egg on noodles teamed with beanshoots, pickled cucumber mint and chilli is another glorious antidote to smashed avocado, and the three-egg mushroom omelet is as densely packed with great fungi as they come ($18).

Making a splash in the new-wave Vietnamese washing over Melbourne, Luxsmith is a lovely local that has broad appeal. Make a date.

Originally published on heraldsun.com.au