There’s something about the name of a restaurant that can paint a picture before you’ve even stepped through its door. Madame Shanghai, the latest to join the throng of Chinese eateries, evokes an image of yesteryear elegance with a theatrical bent.

It’s housed where The Resident had one of Sydney’s shortest tenures. The Lotus Group has taken us away from the Mediterranean, relocating the fare to the streets of Shanghai, circa-1930s. Overlooking Hyde Park, the restaurant lies beneath luxury apartments, back from the concrete chaos of College St.

Behind thick blue curtains there’s the spark of the gold and green open kitchen at one end, and the over-the-top Chinoiserie style of pinks, blues and shimmering malachite at the other.

It’s out-there, but the service is sweet and the sentiment is good enough to let it pass. Plus the wine list is surprisingly strong with some real global gems.

Chef Chris Yan’s menu is prepared in the shaokao style (Chinese barbecue). It’s modern Chinese that also uses Australian native ingredients. Yum cha is also served Thursday to Sunday.

Slabs of Shanghai silken tofu with thousand year duck egg (preserved egg) get a crisp edge with florets of ice plant.

Pork hock is wonderfully tender, served with a sweet, sticky tamarind sauce benefited by native rosella.

But food cooked over the charcoal is a hit and miss affair. A split king prawn coated in coriander, oregano, chilli and lemon is overcooked, while the cumin-rubbed lamb chop with a side of battered saltbush is a little beige.

The cumin chicken hearts are splendid, though – charred on the outside and pink in the centre.

Everything is in place for Madame Shanghai to put on a big performance. But a few more rehearsals are required before it garners grand applause.