Dark and dramatic oriental-accented decor meets a stunning river view at this upmarket pan-Asian favourite.

Loved by city workers at lunch time and social diners at night, the venue offers a lengthy menu of modern East Asian bites designed to share.

Whether sitting in the breezy covered outdoor area, or inside among long timber tables and the buzzy bar, diners can choose individual items off the a la carte menu, or opt for one of two generous banquets.

The smoked ocean trout salad with fennel shavings, fresh herbs and crispy spring onions is a light and zingy start, juxtaposed with the devilish but delicious crispy battered, deep-fried tang sui chicken ribs. The middle ground can be found with an array of steamed dumplings – perhaps the pork version with a sweet-salty pairing of corn puree and black vinegar sauce, or the signature Moreton Bay bug dumpling crowned with spicy XO.

Mains are a more substantial affair – sticky, soy and black bean-infused braised beef cheek, say, or steamed barramundi on a bed of cauliflower puree, spiced up with chilli oil.

A dessert platter offers the menu’s full range of sweet finishes, but the highlight is a steamed bun loaded with caramel alongside a cracking brown sugar ice cream.

Food is matched to a lengthy wine list, which favours popular big-name labels with mass appeal, while cocktails deliver more excitement in the form of ‘Sichuan Margarita’, whose name says it all, and ‘Madame Wu’, shaken with vodka, lychee liqueur, coconut water and grapefruit.

Fast and friendly service keeps things flowing, making Madame Wu a tidy package of good food and good times.

Must-eat dish: Smoked ocean trout with green chilli mayonnaise
Instagram: @madamewubris