Guests should book in advance and can sit in the restaurant proper, looking out towards the cultural precinct, or better yet, at the long bar with the tiny kitchen jammed down one end. Here you’ll watch chefs almost performing a ballet of their own as they pump out copious plates from the unfathomably small space.

Highly knowledgeable and refreshingly unpretentious staff chat about wine from the list encompassing everything from the quirky and unconventional to the classic and costly, taking in small, boutique Australian producers to European powerhouses.

The food is fittingly designed to be shared and enjoyed with vino (there are house cocktails, beer and spirits too), with a cube of audibly crunchy potato rosti capped with creme fraiche undeniably good. Spuds also come in chip form to load up the well-conceived and executed steak tartare with a horseradish cream that elevates it above its rivals. The hungry can then fill up on confit duck lasagne, the edges shrivelled, golden and cheesy, served in its own mini roasting pan.

There’s a generosity of spirit and passion for good old hospitality that makes Maeve a show unto itself.

To read our full list of reviews for Queensland, head here.