What inadequate preparation it proves to be for Magill Estate’s opening salvo. For a deboned chicken wing stuffed with lobster and scallop meat. For a heavenly honey-brushed crumpet loaded with smoked trout butter and fluorescent pearls of roe. And, above all, for the timber spoon holding a single mussel pouch filled with a wagyu tartare and surrounded by white koji butter.

That single mouthful – its sensual textural interplay, the silly surprise of it all – won’t be quickly forgotten. That’s what dining at this level is all about. Memorable moments.

The cooking from long-time chef and new owner Scott Huggins seems more carefree, more buoyant now he has taken full control, with fingers used almost as often as forks.

A sandwich of barbecued porcini and a frizz of fried leek between discs of brioche seems equal parts bread and (truffle) butter, while a next-level seafood medley of lobster meat, abalone and burnt tomato is served with roti to swipe through the ambrosial juices. A perfectly pink lamb cutlet is wrapped Wellington-style with prosciutto, mushroom duxelles and puff pastry that would ideally have cooked through a few minutes longer.

To finish, a block of rice pudding adorned with poached pear, honeycomb, raisin puree and flakes of milk skin is comfort food of a rare calibre.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.