A chicken wing? Really? How does the staple of front bars and burger joints find its way on to a menu full of the elite ingredients and highly creative plates that are the hallmark of dining at Magill Estate?

Chef Scott Huggins shows that he knows best, elevating the wing with fine flakes of salt and just the right amount of juicy flesh and crisp skin, so it becomes a highlight of the “snacks” that kick off dinner at this spectacularly sited showcase for the Penfolds wine brand.

Other snacks are more complex. A slightly sweet crumpet is slathered with trout butter and delicate orange roe, while a croquette of lamb conceals its burst of wasabi until the very end.

A shot of mushroom broth eases the transition to the larger dishes, starting with the theatre of a crunchy-crackly, creamy bird’s nest of celeriac served three ways, accompanied by an apple granita made with liquid nitrogen that fumes as it’s brought to the table.

A kingfish wing decorated with crunchy pepitas is served on a cured garlic base, while an ingot of lamb served with kale and fenugreek is allowed to express its own flavour.

If what’s on the plate doesn’t quite knock your socks off, the view across a sparkling metropolis certainly will, as should the wine list, particularly if choosing the pricier Icon matching (though strangely this option wasn’t offered by staff on this visit).

Next time, perhaps.