Shane Delia’s sophisticated subterranean souk has become a CBD institution, a bastion of modern Middle Eastern flavours, both accomplished and affordable. 
Whether it’s a burger at the bar or a more substantial feast, a generosity of spirit is at the heart of Maha.

Three set-course menus are offered. You can’t help but eat well here, even the four-course shared soufra ($90) is filling. 

Lamb shoulder is a must, a 12-hour roasted, fall-apart delight, its richness offset by radish, pomegranate and mint. Elsewhere, wagyu beef-filled mini dumplings (known as manti) are a must, while sweets are a strong endgame, perhaps fluffy-centred doughnuts doused in rosewater honey and walnuts.

Do go the value-for-money wine pairing for interesting, mostly Middle Eastern, drops or bliss out with excellent cocktails, served by a sharp front-of-house crew. 

Must Eat Dish: Wagyu beef manti