You will, of course, have the lamb.

Anyone visiting Shane Delia’s Maha, Melbourne’s most sophisticated Middle Eastern restaurant, is bound to order this dish and marvel at its fall-apart richness.

But, like an Aladdin’s cave, Delia’s subterranean souk – lantern lit and glowing with gold – offers so much more. Guided by expert staff, it’s possible to enjoy Maha’s mezze magic in two, four, five and six-course banquets, in a vegetarian menu, a bar snack list, even a budget burger lunch.

“Unrestricted’’ is the way Delia describes it. So unrestricted is the experience here that you can chase your cloudy, anise-flavoured arak with a Central Otago pinot, your craft beer with a bourbon. As for music, you’re more likely to hear hip hop beats here than an oud.

Delia’s cooking has matured since he opened Maha nine years ago. While still honouring his Middle Eastern roots, it has become more refined and shapely. Just look at the smoked turnip soup he splashes over cured ocean trout, tahini, roast garlic and pine nuts. Or the perfect pork cutlet he amps up with preserved orange.

Then there’s Maha’s ‘knafeh’, a classic cheese and pastry dessert, which Delia skilfully reinterprets with citrus curd, honey and orange blossom ice cream. This is a dish you could savour for one thousand and one nights. But one fine evening at Maha should suffice.

Must eat dish: 12-hour roasted lamb shoulder, cumin, garlic, onion and tarragon
Instagram: @maharestaurant