With its exposed brick walls, walnut-hued cathedral ceiling and barely there lighting, Malt Dining channels the rustic, cosy chalets of the Swiss Alps within Brisbane’s charming, heritage Henley House. All that’s missing is the crackling fireplace and steaming mug of gluhwein – lucky for us it doesn’t snow in Brisbane.

Chef Andy Birse employs traditional French techniques across an allergy-friendly menu with a decent vegetarian component, but it’s the protein-based dishes that are the heroes. Take, for example, a vibrant cobia entree, the fish taking on gentle floral notes from a curing in sake, alongside earthy beetroot wedges, squirts of lemony avocado and crumbs of fried, horseradish-spiked rye bread for crunch. Or the hearty veal shank, the soft, relenting meat deboned and complemented by a Jerusalem artichoke puree and a slightly saccharine jus.

The malt brownie dessert looks better than it tastes, so perhaps indulge in more savoury items or finish with a glass of dessert wine from the stellar list of diverse international offerings, including a section dedicated to some Penfolds greats. Service is as warm as the decor thanks to hospitality veterans who offer personality and expertise in equal measure.

Must-eat dish: Cured cobia
Instagram: @maltdining