From elegant banquette tables to conversation-sparking counter perches, energy radiates from an open, central kitchen to infuse gatherings great and small. Dimly lit, its industrial edges softened by a spray of cherry blossoms, Mamasan Kitchen + Bar takes foundations from Southeast Asia into crowd-pleasing modern territory. Choose the traditional seating if you’re planning a tete-a-tete, but be prepared to share the fusion fare.

The service is snappy, although you may need a moment to browse the beers, wines, spirits, sake and cocktails (you can share those, too) that set the eatery’s celebratory tone.

A flurry of chefs, heads bent over a procession of precise plating, keep the food flowing from whispers of sashimi to robust curries. Umami black pepper and chilli sauce will ensure you get your fingers involved in wok-tossed Moreton Bay bugs, only to be outdone by the coconut sambal bisque spooned over spanner crab ravioli dumplings.

Dessert devotees won’t need to consult the fortune cookie that comes with Mamasan’s signature sesame ice cream and salted caramel chocolate brownie to know a happy ending is on the cards.

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