With whirling winds sheeting rain almost horizontal the day we visit, many restaurants on Manly’s foreshore have little more than tumbleweeds rolling in. Except, that is, at new kid on the block, Manly Greenhouse. Who’d go out in this weather other than ducks and Huck? Quite a few, it turns out, and they’re all here for very good reason.

Co-owners Patricia Nunes and Greg Anderson (who also have Sails on Lavender Bay) have revamped the three level former Shore Club to open Manly Greenhouse, serving a contemporary, simple spin on Italian on the ground floor. The Rooftop bar, meanwhile, delivers panoramic views of the big deep blue and cocktails just as cool. A serious grill will open on the middle storey in December.

It’s designed by Luchetti Krelle (also behind the good looks of Banksii and Acme) and true to its name there’s greenery in abundance. Add white brick walls, mirrors, blonde décor and pastel blues and greens, and it’s a seaside oasis that sets a new benchmark for the northern suburb.

Staff, led by seasoned professional Craig Hemmings (Quay, Guillaume, Chin Chin), are switched-on and super friendly and the wine list is balanced and adventurous in equal measure. It’s smart, casual, but a seriously well run machine and chef Colm Kennedy’s food rarely skips a beat.

Creamy kingfish crudo comes with pomegranate, shaved fennel, grapes and chilli, while sweet figs star next to thin sheets of prosciutto and whipped mozzarella. Al dente asparagus, garden peas, zucchini flowers and Binnorie feta combine in a gorgeous risotto, while a juicy slab of pork chop gets the cotoletta crumb treatment – while it’s beautifully cooked, I’m not convinced by its side of agrodolce cabbage. Nevertheless, the zing of lemon curd and expert buttery pastry make the lemon tart shine – even on such a gloomy day.