I’ve been a fan of ramen soups for a long time, but ever since I travelled and spent time in Japan I’ve been on the hunt for where to find the best version Down Under. The lines at Ippudo are infamous, sprawling along the street from the time the doors open until they close. But what exactly are they lining up for? The chain has made a name for itself thanks to its tonkotsu ramen (pork bone broth) and in part due to the steamed buns.

We’re seated at a sharing table, not that we had much choice in the matter. It seems to be the format at Ippudo, which is fine, but a little awkward if you wanted to have a private conversation. Never mind, though, we’re here for the ramen, not the conversation. Our waiter dutifully takes our order for the classic shiromaru motoaju ramen, the spicy karaka-men ramen and pork buns. Oh, and of course, the chicken karage.

The buns arrive first and are a brilliant way to start the meal, swimming in, what we call in French, an amuse-bouche, or ‘mouth amuser’. The buns themselves are fluffy, cloud-like morsels, steamed to sweet perfection and filled with a caramelised slice of pork belly, a crisp piece of lettuce and crowned with Japanese mayonnaise. They’re so good I could eat a dozen. The chicken karage, however, causes things to take a step back. The ratio of chicken to batter is not quite right, meaning it’s lacking the much-loved crunch we were expecting.

Not all is lost, though. The shiromaru motoaji ramen is redeeming, with its creamy broth flavoured with a house-secret dashi, thin straight noodles cooked shiko-shiko (al dente), slices of pork loin chashu, bean sprouts and black fungus with spring onions. The karaka-men ramen is essentially the same broth, but this time with thin-wavy noodles and the addition of a spicy minced pork miso, topped with roasted cashews. Both deliver the goods in terms of flavour and the obvious kick from the spiciness of the karaka-men, but they’re missing the intensity I love about ramen, the umami hit that I first fell in love with in Japan.

The Verdict

If you can’t jump on a plane to Japan for a quick bowl of ramen and some steamed buns, I’d still recommend you try Ippudo. It might not be the best ramen in Australia, but it hits the spot.

Best seat in the house: Still undecided, given we had little choice in the matter on where to sit.

Best drink: I love the new Asahi black beer.

Date safe: If it’s the first date and you’re not yet ready to splash the cash but still want to seem cultured and cool, this is your place. If you want a more romantic, intimate date, this might not be a winner.

X-factor: Pork bunzzzzzzzzz!

Rating: 3.5/5