Head to this Surry Hills restaurant and expect to find all the usual local cool cats. No real surprises there, though, this place is a millennial’s dream. We’re greeted by co-owner Vinny upon arrival, who runs us through the extensive and exciting spritz menu. There are more than 20 options, but it’s the aptly named Fly Me to the Moon (Aperol, Four Pillars Negroni Gin, grapefruit and soda) that kickstarts our evening. It’s well balanced and refreshing, and replaces my usual wine for the night.

 Mark Filippelli and Vince (Vinny) Pizzinga, the dynamic duo behind this 45-seater restaurant, have devised an unorthodox menu with chef Adrian Jankuloski (formerly of The Dolphin and North Bondi Fish) that’s both quirky and, at times, fun. The burrata is simple but beautiful, served with a balanced green tomato jam and crisp schiacciata, and lightly adorned with basil oil. Unfortunately, the melanzana, a dish of burnt eggplant dip, is disappointing. It’s missing a good pinch of salt and the kick of some Calabrian chilli, and the kitchen would do well to restrain from the overbearingly bitter thyme.

The polpette, also known as Adrian’s meatballs (get your head out of the gutter!), arrive swimming in a rich, slow-cooked tomato sugo. They quickly become the standout dish of the night. Not shying away from the vegan options, we try the charcoal bucatini, a vegan version of carbonara made with slightly gritty activated charcoal pasta, smoked mushrooms, and an egg-like yolk of sweet potato and plant-based parmesan. I’ve always believed that if you want to re-invent a classic it has to be as good or better than the original, and, unfortunately, this isn’t.

Mark and Vinny’s has gained much of its popularity online due to a blue spirulina tagliatelle. Naturally, we couldn’t pass on the opportunity to try the dish. Served with blue swimmer crab and a deep-flavoured bisque, and topped with bottarga and pangrattato, the pasta was a little too al dente for my liking, but the flavour was spot on. I have to ask, though, “why spirulina pasta?” Call me old-fashioned, but turquoise blue doesn’t belong in food. The chef’s gnocchi del giorno, a nightly special of hand-rolled gnocchi, redeems the show. Tossed with diced cured pork cheeks, crisp sage and burnt butter, and served with grated parmesan, it’s one of those melt-in-your-mouth moments. My only criticism? I would have loved a bit more butter (I am French, after all) and some restraint on the lemon in the sauce.

We finish the meal with deep-fried vegan ‘no-tella’ ravioli, served with cacao nibs, freeze-dried raspberry and a silky coconut ice cream. It’s finished in an instant, with each bite revealing the hidden molten chocolate filling inside. Those looking to kick on with another spritz need look no further than the bitter orange spritz cake, served with granita and prosecco zabaglione.

I was truly excited to dine at Mark and Vinny’s. While I might not be going vegan anytime soon, after eating here, my verdict is that the restaurant would benefit from not trying so hard. I believe Italian food is such a great cuisine that we shouldn’t play too much with it. Its flavours are simple and rich, and that’s what is really lacking here, but I love the concept of Italian food paired with spritzes

The Verdict 

Best seat in the house: If you don’t mind the hustle and bustle, the table by the kitchen is quite entertaining. 

Best drink: With such a great spritz list it’s hard to choose which to start with, but the restaurant’s special, Fly Me to the Moon, is a sure bet.

Date Safe? It’d be a lot better to go with a bunch of friends.

X-Factor: The spritz menu is fabulous.

Overall rating out of 5: 3/5