Dining revelations come in the most unexpected places. Case in point: Market Eating House in Bunbury.  the city between Perth and the Margaret River region has a burgeoning scene of small bars and restaurants and, in Market Eating House, a serious contender for one of WA’s best new places to gather a gang of enthusiastic eaters. And believe me, a gang is required.

Brenton and Bec Pyke opened in late 2015 with a kitchen built around a wood-fired grill, burning Mallee root and Jarrah. A menu that mines Byzantine and eastern Mediterranean tradition is a tip of the hat to Brenton’s past kitchens; most notably as head chef at George Calombaris’ Little Press & Cellar in Melbourne.

A lofty dining room with an open kitchen, bare brick, exposed tin roof and filament light bulbs could place you in a smart neighbourhood of any capital city. Far from style over substance, the Pyke’s have serious hospo game. Apart from Brenton’s past, wife Bec is a MacConnell alumni, counting Cumulus Inc and Moon Under Water under her influences. It shows: the front of house, mostly first timers, are a serious credit, in a state that makes sport of bemoaning service.

While there are a la carte options, the $45 “feed me” is where it’s at. A generous chefs selection of 10 dishes leaves you wondering what kind of eating machine could polish off the $65 “feed me more”.

Meze starters get you straight into the Market Eating House ethos. When was the last time you were surprised by olives? Warm, braised and briny, with a hint of chilli, it shows that little extra care. Eggplants get the wood fire treatment for baba ganoush,  with a pool of olive oil and a scoop of smoked yoghurt at the centre. Hummus, topped with ground lamb, ras el hanout and raisins, has the right amount of punch in what is a spice heavy menu. There could be more spice respite in places, but this is a dining afterthought on a menu that’s still evolving. Produce is sourced locally as is the short but stellar drinks list. Custard & Co cider, Colonial Brewing and a host of small wineries from across the southwest.

While the proteins, such as the lamb with a basturma crust, will undoubtedly fire the mind of carnivores, the veggies punch at the same weight. Spiced cauliflower with almonds, dates and parsley are an instant a go-to dish, and the fattoush Salad with heirloom tomatoes, radish, fried bread and liberal herbs offers that respite.

A menu rarely beats me but I’ll admit the doggy bag white flag was raised. That said: belt notched down by a hole or two, the leftovers boxed, it would seem careless not to try the dessert. Simple grilled peach, lemon and verbena is another winner; a cleansing full stop to the meal. If Market Eating House and nearby small bar Lost Bills are anything to go by, Bunbury just slipped above the radar.