When in Rome… The old adage means to embrace the customs of the place you are visiting, but most of us use it as permission to indulge a little – a glass of bubbles here, a guilty pleasure there.

The Romans sure knew a thing or two about that and Sydney is enjoying its own Roman revival with operators looking to Italy’s capital for culinary inspiration. Fresh off the back of the rebirth of La Rosa’s Roman Grill comes another in Marta – a remodelling of the former southern Italian-inspired Popolo.

Owner Flavio Carnevale cut his teeth in the restaurants of Rome, falling in love with its food. So, as Popolo gets set to move to the CBD, Carnevale felt it was time all roads led to Rome at his Rushcutters Bay premises.

The alfresco setting gives it a piazza feel and inside, the new fit-out offers bar seating, banquettes and communal tables with an emerald aesthetic featuring leather, oak and marble. It is smart and relaxed without losing its professional edge.

Chef Christuan Jordaan shows masterful restraint in proving great produce cooked simply is so special.

Rich, meaty sardine fillets are rolled in breadcrumbs and baked. Grilled new season asparagus delivers its grassy, nutty joy, but it needs more of the accompanying egg yolk. Whole deepfried artichoke is a crunchy, salty, sweet joy, while tonnarelli cacio e pepe is a textural cheese lover’s dream of thick, toothsome spaghetti, pecorino and buckets of black pepper.

Not to be outdone are the Roman-style pizzas. Thin and charred on the bottom, the margherita boasts a big red sauce, fior di latte, reggiano and basil leaves. It’s one of the best I’ve ever had.

Meanwhile, the drinks list explores Italy’s regions as well as inspiring methods of decanting to aerate wines.

When in Sydney, do as the Romans do and dine at Marta.