Is it subversive or, you know, under the ground? It’s both. Jake Smyth and Kenny Graham of the famed burgers have revived the subterranean space once home to legendary live-music venue The Basement and there they’re subverting Sydney dining categories with a finely tuned big-night menu and bringing back the music.

A line-up of bands big on jazz, soul and R&B play to diners seated at spotlit tables and high-backed stools at the bar, where you can have the entire menu. But first, cocktails. You could do worse than start with the dirty martini, The Filth & the Fury. Rather than the classic olive brine, the ‘dirty’ comes in the form of bush tomato – infused in the Poor Tom’s gin and skewered with a tiny swatch of melted cheese as the garnish. Wines are largely local and French, with solid showings from Italy and Germany, a mix that neatly mirrors the European-leaning modern Australian menu. The creative handiwork of Mary’s Group executive chef Jimmy Garside and Smyth, it’s delivered by chef Joel Wootten, late of Rockpool. Among the entrées, tortilla defies expectations, the integrity of the omelette and discs of potato unswayed by the crab sauce. If it is indeed a big night, the lobster Australienne served with butter spiked with lemon myrtle and duck-fat fries could be the way to go. Or perhaps a half or whole rôtisserie duck served with persimmon and anise myrtle. You won’t go wrong, though, with the saddleback chop, gussied up with koji and radish butter.

It’s thrilling stuff. Add the switched-on staff and, whatever the occasion, it’s a wonderful big night out.