There’s a hint of Bollywood at Masala Theory: kaleidoscopic walls, waiters pirouetting between tables and fragrant Western Indian fare enlivening the room.

But this is a side of Indian cuisine we’ve not really been privy to, and there’s a lot to like about the energy and exuberance of this newcomer.

Housed in the Surry Hills terrace formerly occupied by Vietnamese stalwart Red Lantern, Masala Theory comes courtesy of Indian-born Yashpal Erda and wonderfully captures the verve and spice of the subcontinent.

It’s an expression of the country’s current food movement that references tradition and global trends and executes them with a youthful enthusiasm. It means you’re as likely to see bright orange butter chicken or beetroot panna cotta on the menu as cumin-led galouti lamb sliders, while scrumptious spicy prawns served in a martini glass are a tongue-in-cheek homage to a classic prawn cocktail.

Not every dish hits the high notes, but chef Rushabh Rupani’s food is more about enjoying a meal with friends than challenging culinary scribes.

Black cardamom, cinnamon and tomato provide the foundation of a good goat (salli botti) curry, while chillies and onion underpin smoked eggplant bharta. Just make sure you succumb to the gooey glory of the cheese, chilli and coriander naan to swoosh through each of your mains.

Desserts are pretty missable – the chai chocolate fondant is fine but the paan kulfi is just plain weird. There’s no booze on the menu, but it is BYO. I’d just like to see less adventure in the food and a bit more focus on the foundations that make Indian so exhilarating.

Nevertheless, Masala Theory is a vibrant new addition to the multicultural mix of Crown St.