See it for yourself perched at one of eight ringside seats overlooking the fire-powered kitchen, or find a table in the moody dining room. Head chef Aleksis Kalnins is on the pots and pans, championing the best from land and sea.

Make a taco from grill-branded flatbreads slathered in Matilda’s prawn butter and a healthy dose of Fraser Island spanner crab, dressed in creme fraiche and finger lime. You’d be forgiven for thinking staff have made a rare misstep when the Milla’s Farm dry-aged duck hits the table with two plates, but one is for the breast and one for the pressed leg, each rocking crisp skin and juicy, cherry wood-smoked flesh.

Native ingredients make a serious play, seen in the foamy strawberry gum cocktail, saltbush-seasoned lamb ribs or refreshing eucalyptus ice cream. Make a night of it by staying upstairs at boutique hotel United Places. But don’t stray the next day, as Matilda is also open for brunch. What will it be? Croque monsieur or wood-fired waffle s’mores?

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