At Maxwell, however, they take this to a whole new level. A pair of waffles, brushed with beef fat, arrive on a folded napkin, ready to swipe through the glossy puddle of sauce at the base of a block of grilled wagyu. This final savoury course is Exhibit A of the sensible sophistication and egalitarian appeal that has taken Maxwell to a place among the very best of the state’s vast array of winery restaurants. And it is a reflection of the crowd-pleasing qualities of the wider Maxwell business.

All this comes together in a striking, golden-stoned cellar door, where tables in the original dining room are now supplemented by those on a newly enclosed deck. Chef Fabian Lehmann has created a single tasting menu of 10 courses, starting with a sequence of bite-sized snacks. Delicate strips of poached abalone are stuck to the base of a shell with Jerusalem artichoke, while the case of a chicken tart is formed from a layer of crisp skin. Pork belly is brined and cooked in fat for three days (yes, days) to make a small, fat-streaked slab that hovers somewhere between bacon and the stuff of your wildest dreams.

After the wagyu, finish with a dessert that has multiple links with the winery – caramelised oak chip ice cream, malt crumble, mead sabayon and mead jellies.

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